Maryport gardens take a battering that inland ones rarely see: westerly gales straight off the Solway, salt in the air and long wet winters. That changes the usual closeboard versus panel argument quite a bit. Here is how the two really compare when the fence has to stand up to the coast.
Panel fencing uses factory-made panels, normally 1.83m (6ft) wide, dropped or fixed between posts. The cheapest are waney lap panels, made from thin overlapping horizontal slats in a light frame. Closeboard panels are a heavier version with vertical boards.
Traditional closeboard, also called feather edge, is built on site. Posts go in first, then two or three horizontal rails are fixed between them, and overlapping vertical feather edge boards are nailed on one at a time. Each board is fixed to every rail, so the fence behaves as one continuous structure and not a row of separate rectangles.
Wind is the deciding factor here. A solid 1.8m fence acts like a sail, and exposed plots around the harbour, the Promenade, up the hill at Ewanrigg and Netherton, or out towards Flimby and Crosscanonby get the full force of it.
Waney lap panels are the usual casualty. The slats are only a few millimetres thick, the frames are stapled, and after two or three winters you often see slats blown out or whole panels lifted from their slots. Site-built closeboard is far stiffer because the load is shared across rails and posts, and if one board splits you replace that board for a few pounds instead of a whole panel.
Salt air attacks fixings before it attacks timber. Bright steel nails and cheap brackets rust quickly near the sea, so ask for hot dip galvanised or stainless fixings whichever style you choose. Timber should be pressure treated, and posts in the ground should be rated UC4.
Most fences that fail in a gale snap at ground level, where a timber post has rotted. Concrete posts avoid that problem and are our usual recommendation near the coast. If you prefer the look of timber, 100mm x 100mm UC4 posts are the minimum, and 125mm is worth considering on an open boundary.
For a 1.8m fence, posts should go about 600mm into the ground and be set in concrete, deeper on soft or made-up ground. Closer post spacing helps too: 2.4m bays on an exposed run are stronger than 3m bays.
A concrete or treated timber gravel board along the bottom keeps the boards clear of wet soil, which is where rot starts in West Cumbrian gardens that stay damp for much of the year.
As a rough guide for a 1.8m fence supplied and fitted locally, lap panels on concrete posts tend to fall around £70 to £100 per metre, and site-built closeboard on concrete posts with gravel boards around £100 to £150 per metre. Treat these as ballpark figures only. The real price depends on access, ground conditions, slopes, how much old fencing needs removing and current timber prices.
Closeboard costs more up front because there is more timber and more labour. Spread over its lifespan it usually works out cheaper, because you are not replacing blown panels every few winters.
For most Maryport gardens with any exposure to the west or north west, site-built closeboard is the better buy. It also follows sloping ground neatly, which suits the many plots here that fall towards the sea.
Generally up to 2m in a back garden and 1m where it sits next to a road or footpath used by vehicles, without planning permission. Parts of Maryport fall within a conservation area and some properties are listed, so check with Cumberland Council before starting if that could apply to you.
Often, yes. If the posts are sound and upright, slotted posts can take closeboard panels, or rails can be fixed with suitable brackets for boards to be nailed on site. Leaning or cracked posts should be replaced first, as they are what holds the fence up in a gale.
Pressure treated timber does not strictly need it, but a coat of good quality preservative every two to three years slows weathering and helps it last. Checking fixings and clearing soil or leaves away from the base each autumn makes just as much difference.
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