Garden hedges cut back to a line and shaped, from a beech boundary to an overgrown leylandii that has got away. The part people care about is what happens afterwards: the clippings get raked up, bagged and taken away, so you get a tidy garden the same day rather than a hedge cut and a mess left behind.
Faces and tops taken back to a set line rather than followed loosely, so the hedge reads straight from the house and grows back evenly instead of getting wider every year.
A hedge that has got away can usually be brought back over a couple of seasons rather than all at once. Taking too much at one go leaves brown gaps that never fill in on conifer.
Clippings raked out of the borders and off the lawn, bagged and taken away. Cutting the hedge is the easy half; getting the mess off the garden is the half people notice.
Bird nesting season runs roughly March to August and cutting an active nest is an offence. We check the hedge before starting and, where there is a nest in it, we come back rather than carry on.
For most garden hedges, late summer once the nesting season is over, with a lighter tidy in late spring if it is a fast grower. Beech and hornbeam take a single late-summer cut well. Conifer and privet want two a year if you want them to stay sharp. What matters more than the exact month is not leaving it so long that you are cutting back into old wood.
Usually, and often over two visits rather than one. Deciduous hedges like beech, hawthorn and privet will take a hard cut and come back from old wood. Leylandii and most conifers will not: cut into the brown and it stays brown. So on an overgrown conifer the honest plan is to take the height down, then bring the sides in over a couple of seasons, and we will tell you if it has gone too far to save.
Yes, and it is in the price rather than an extra. Clippings get raked out of the borders and off the lawn, bagged and taken off site. A big reduction generates a surprising amount of waste, so on a large hedge we will mention it at the quote rather than turning up with nowhere to put it.
Anything reachable safely off the ground or a platform, which covers the great majority of garden hedges. Very tall conifer or anything needing climbing gear or work near overhead cables is a different trade and we will say so rather than have a go at it.
Yes, and it is the cheapest way to keep a hedge right. Once or twice a year on the same visit as the grass keeps it in shape and stops it turning into the big reduction job that costs several times as much. Plenty of our garden work is exactly this, the same gardens on a regular round through the season.
Closeboard built board by board on site: concrete posts set in, rock-faced gravel boards along the bottom, featheredge nailed to arris rails and a capping rail over the top.
ServiceLap, bow-top, arched and decorative panels fitted between concrete or timber posts, set to a level line with the tops running true.
ServiceGarden and side gates made to match the fence and hung so they still shut in five years, plus repairs to runs that are not ready for replacing.
ServiceRegular grass cutting through the growing season, edges done, clippings taken off and the paths blown down before we leave.
ServiceOne-off clearances for gardens that have got on top of people.
Ring us, WhatsApp a photo of the job, or use the form and we will get back to you quickly.